On Tuesday we hired a car
as we’d been recommended it by a local (you may have guessed by this point that
we chat to practically everyone we meet). So after an unsuccessful attempt to
hire one through Avis, our super-friendly hotel manager said that he’d sort it
(Nb. We’re staying in a hotel as the only hostel in BSB was full of
school-children…this is not a place geared up for back-packers!). So it appears
‘sorting it’ meant him calling up his mate who quickly gave his car a spring
clean and dropped it off with for us within the hour. It still had change in
the pocket and pens in the glove compartment. So rather dubiously we signed our
lives away and set off on our exciting road trip! Apart from the main city area
of Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB to locals), the inhabited part of the country is
mainly a series of small towns (about 5 in total), dotted along one long
highway that runs along the coast (the rest of the country is rainforest). So
we were assured we wouldn’t get lost (of course we still managed to, to the
extent that we accidentally stretched our 9pm curfew to 10.15pm by driving in
circles around BSB, but they were luckily very lenient about it). So we spent
the day exploring beaches, little towns, and bigger towns, we found a beautiful
lake which someone had recommended to us, a short rainforest walk, and a visit
to see some traditional Iban (indigenous) Long-houses. We also stopped by the
Empire Hotel which is a super swank hotel resort built in the Bruneian
Boom-time for a whopping US$1.1 billion. It costs up to $1400 per night to stay
in one of their suites, and is grotesquely over-the top and garish, but also
quite impressive (in a mind-blowing, how-and-why-the-hell-did-they-build-such-a-monstrosity)
sort of way. We popped in for a cheeky $5 cup of tea just for an experience,
feeling like imposters as the doormen let us in to the grand entrance way in
our sweaty backpacker clobber.
I wouldn’t say our day
was spectacular in any sense of the word. The towns are fairly featureless, we
mainly saw highway, and nothing blew us away, but it was a fun experience, and
when you’ve been tied to public transport for a while, hiring a car is
satisfyingly liberating. We also reminded ourselves that the reason we didn’t
get to see anything spectacular is that it’s all locked away in that
beautifully inaccessible rainforest, exactly where it should be, so that
thought is somewhat heart-warming.
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